My Parents' European Adventure: Mt Etna, Sicily
- Jack Bogniak
- Apr 29
- 4 min read
Day 6: Travel day to Mt Etna
The morning was still again with some clouds moving in. We’ve had 3 glorious days with no wind and all sun. I forgot to mention that some of the hilltops have windmills and this morning was first I have seen them moving. Our travel took us inland and east on the island of Sicily. This was the first 4 lane road that we drove on here. I noticed it was marked “40” and I failed to see any relationship to our actual speed. All the way we had Mt Etna – one of Europe’s most active volcanoes - to watch.
Our check-in time wasn’t till 4:00 pm and the drive time only two and a half hours, so we found a shopping area near our destination and got some western food. We elected to stay at a small house on the eastern slip of Etna, about as high up as most homes went (2,100 feet). This involved about 20 minutes of very tight turns and steep inclines. When we got near the place, it wasn’t clear which place it was or how to get to it and we had to call the host.
This place is very old on the outside but nicely done on the inside. It has open patio areas with a view of the Mediterranean that is stunning. Unfortunately, the weather turned cold and cloudy and we were in that cloud.
Being Easter weekend, these folks are on holiday including Easter Monday. Not a single restaurant open. Jess and Elan went exploring for food and they finally found a single grocery store open and loaded up (especially on the wine, which is less than $5 for most).
And there was story time. I had made a list of titles of funny stories from my lifetime for Eleanor to pick from. She has her favorites that we have to tell again and again. Nice shot Nelly! She took that.
Day 7: Mount Etna
We got an early start for a location to view the top of Mt Etna, a semi-active volcano.
We’re staying on the eastern side of Etna at about 2,000 feet, but the best access to the top was on the southern face. We drove across thru small towns to the route to drive higher. This took more than 30 minutes. It took us through towns, then hardwood forests, then long needle pine forests, then open grasses and old lava rock flows to a popular tourist destination at Crateri Silvestri about 6,200 feet.
From here you can take a cable car or ride 4 wheelers to near the main crater on top, or you can hike around some smaller inactive crater nearby. This was high enough for me though (thinking of my ear problems with altitude).
On the way back down we stopped a few times to allow my ears to catch up with the barometric pressure. But it didn't help, I had exceeded my limits and I had a vertigo episode (the crazy curves are no help!). With some assistance getting to the room and a few hours resting I was ready for the hot tub.
If you recall, the restaurants have been closed for most of the holiday weekend (Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday) I was ready to go out to eat but couldn’t find one that was open on Tuesday and most said will be open Wednesday at 7:30PM! Thank God for Elan, the chef!
So as I was getting comfortable in bed at 8:00, Jessie comes up and says that we got a text from the landlord that Etna was blowing! So we all ran out to our driveway, and there it was! Then we found an unobstructed view from our back garden. As it turned dark we began to notice some lava flows, and the sounds, like a rolling thunder punctuated by what reminded me of far off rifle shots in deer season.

We got our chairs, blankets and beer and watched the show. We went to bed when it got quieter. It's a little unnerving to think that if everyone is wrong about this volcano, we would have a front row seat to a Mt St Helens episode.
Day 8: The Day After the Eruption
We’re still here, the morning looks bright. There are still dark clouds around Etna but couldn’t see much.

We made an early start on our day trip south along the coast. First stop was in Catania, a coastal city, to visit the WWII museum. Then on to Syracuse, also on the sea. The island (over a small bridge) of Ortigia. This is worth a visit. An old walled city/ fort/ palace depending on the time period. A nice sea breeze, good food, street entertainment. Get there before noon or later afternoon as the parking is a problem.
Another evening in the hot tub until we noticed the smell of smoke, I think Etna’s still smoldering.
Day 9: Taormina
Today we went north along the eastern coast to the popular mountainous seaside city of Taormina. This was by far the most scenic and most difficult to get around.
Very few level streets, always going up or down. Beautiful sites all around!
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