My Parents' European Adventure: Ciro, Italy and the Cataldi Family Homestead

Day 10: Travel to Ciro Marina

We drove north along the Sicilian coast to Messina to catch a ferry to mainland Italy. It was pretty uneventful except maybe the motorcycle gangs accompanying us. Our drive took us up the western shore a ways then crossed over to the eastern shore northeasterly. The contour changes from the rough mountains to a more gentle grasslands. All of these roads involve tunnels to get through the mountain ridges. I am still amazed at the lower costs in this area (except gasoline, I guess). 

Our visit here was to see the hometown of the Cataldo (Cataldi in Italy, Cataldo in the US) family. Deb’s grandfather originated in this southern part of Italy but like most families there hasn’t been communication in generations. Thanks to Jessie for establishing some connections before we arrived. We found out that there are 300 cousins here and much excitement over our visit, although timing is not optimal as everyone here is “on holiday” and traveling around. The one person was even visiting the same places in Sicily while we were there. No plans to see anyone today, that will need to wait til tomorrow and even that was a little iffy.

It was cool and windy as we explored the beach. Debbie found more beach glass in an hour than she has her entire life, now who will carry it home?

Exploring the beach in southern Italy

We have a very nice room ($100 a night!) and had a nice seaside dinner. We’re practicing our Google Translate app on our phones to prepare us for when we leave Jessie. Forget watching TV here, they are all small, don’t work and if it works you can’t understand it. 

Day 11: Ciro Marina and Ciro

Our day started out slow with no plans and not sure if we would see any family. Then a call from cousin Rosa and an invite to come for a visit. She lives in an apartment in downtown Ciro Marina. When we arrived she was on the balcony waving. Rosina had recently broke her arm and was in a cast. We met two more family members, Antonio and Michelangelo. We sat and talked at the dining room table, they served chocolate and small bottles (like 2 oz) of some red sweet drink. After a good visit, we agreed to return for dinner and Michelangelo would take us around the corner to meet more family. 

He led us to a ground floor apartment. We were welcomed by the extended family. One of the older men was sleeping on the couch with dementia. There were multiple generations living there. Back at the first place it was decided that Michelangelo would take his car and we would follow up to the old town of Ciro where we understood the Cataldi family originated and look for the old homestead. 

Ends up, Ciro is a very old town located at the peak of a mountain with a view to the sea. 

Beautiful Views

Michelangelo stopped in town to get directions; it appears he hasn’t been there in a while. At the door we were welcomed as “long lost family”. Inside we met the oldest, Rafael and his wife Calabreterita, their daughters Maria and Vittoria and more. They secured a promise to return for lunch (it was about 10:00AM) while Rafael and Michelangelo took us to find Deb’s grandfather’s childhood home. We followed a few blocks then parked and proceeded on foot because the single lane road became narrower. 

We found Deb's grandfather's home and the neighborhood church which was beautiful.

At lunchtime we were back at Rafael’s place, and the women had been cooking!

They had set the long dinner table with 12 places of the best china and began bringing out courses. First the cured meats and cheeses, then breads and a salty tomato spread with anchovy flavor. We were joined by more family and added more place settings. 

Then the salad, potatoes with peppers, more potatoes, pasta, cooked meats (3), beans and macaroni, wine (made of Ciro grapes). There was no more room on the table (or in my belly as I tried to eat some of everything). 

The whole time the room was filled with spirited Italian discussion and the only person in the room that understood both languages was Jessie! Of course she was fantastic and they loved her. We left with promises to visit again, maybe in Pa. 

The day is not over as we will be meeting more family tonight in Ciro Marina. 

We met with cousins Rosita and another Antonio and followed them to some picturesque overlooks. And of course there is a Saint Cataldo! (the banner on the wall in the photo below). We wandered the streets of Ciro Marina visiting sites of family history and meeting many people along the way. This is not a small town, yet they seem to know almost everybody!

Goodbye is a process here and if it wasn’t for a sprinkle of rain we may still be in it. 

Day 12: Travel north to Rome

We packed up early for a 6 hour drive up from the bottom of the boot, across the arch and then filling the western coast to Rome. Italy has lots of mountains! In fact, it’s mostly mountains. I was concerned about the altitude for my problem with vertigo. I have determined that I can handle 1,000 feet of descent ok, but beyond that no so good. Even though we exceeded that in the mountain passes, I did fine as the 4 lane roads made very gradual elevation changes. 

We experienced traffic jams which set us back an hour, and ate at a through way service plaza, best described as chaos!

We got back to Rome and Jess’ place for one last night before we depart on our own adventure.